Tag Archives: spain

The Lessons of History

This essay contains an important story for the ages. Given current events, and the absolute truth that history does repeat, the lesson is plain, and chilling. 

One of my treasured possessions from the years I lived in Spain is a 16th-century manuscript. It’s a big book, about fifteen by twenty inches, and it contains around 40 hand-written and hand-illuminated parchment pages. According to a faded and somewhat mysterious note inserted between two of the pages, itself very old and its ink faded, “This book contains the responsive readings and Benedictions for all the Masses of all the Saturdays.” 

My parents bought the book at a junk shop one Sunday morning in Madrid’s famous flea market, El Rastro. When asked how much the book cost, the shop owner picked it up, hefted it to assess its weight, shrugged his shoulders, and declared, “140 Pesetas.” About two dollars. Years later, They passed it on to me.

There’s nothing in the book that identifies its origins, other than its Catholic purpose. I’ve studied and researched it extensively, and spent countless hours with scholars of ancient manuscripts. Here’s what I know. The cover is most likely Spanish, as evidenced by the intricately tooled designs in the leather. The pattern is made up of rows of tiny rosettes, similar to covers from the same period which were often inlaid with ivory and precious stones. The binding mimics the German style of binding of the same period.

The contents are mid-16th-century. There is handwriting toward the end of the book appears to be in the style of the early 18th-century, which implies that the book must have been in use until at least the 1700s.

The book is divided into sections by crude index tabs, hand-labeled and made of vellum, a stronger paper than the high-quality rag of the manuscript itself. A careful examination of one of the pages under a special microscope designed for the purpose reveals a pattern of lines pressed into the surface, a consistent fraction of a millimeter apart, a result of the mold and deckle used in the paper manufacturing process. This line pattern confirms the date of the book.

The pages are hand-written in Latin, and the lines of text alternate with musical staff for the choir that chanted them.

A year or so ago, I decided that I wanted to know more about this strange and ancient book that fell into my hands. I wanted to know where it came from; who wrote it; what the ink was made from; where the paper was sourced; what church or cathedral it was used in; and what was going on in the world at the time. I wanted to know about socioeconomics, geopolitical happenings, and cultural mores. Was it used in a church that was abandoned due to declining attendance, its assets scattered? Was the book looted during the Spanish Civil War? I didn’t know, but I wanted to.

I started by looking into the time period just before the book was first created and used. I don’t know for sure and probably never will, but based on my own research and the insights of academics and scholars far more informed than I, the middle of the 15th-century seemed like a good place to start. 

During the mid-1400s, the late Middle Ages were coming to a close, and the Renaissance, with its focus on the arts, music, and the humanities, was beginning. The Hundred Years’ War between England and France was finally drawing to a close, the Byzantine Empire fell to the Ottoman Turks with the capture of Constantinople in 1453, and Spain and Portugal were demonstrating their sea powers, on the hunt for new trade routes with the rest of the world. 

Equally important was the invention of the printing press in Europe, which arrived too late for my book, but had a profound impact, nonetheless, on the spread of global knowledge, insight, awareness, and ideas. 

In essence, the mid-15th century was a period of transformation, of turnover from one set of guiding principles to another. It was here, shortly after this moment of transition, that my manuscript book came into existence.

The Iberian Peninsula, which comprises Spain and Portugal, has been a multicultural melting pot for its entire existence. For centuries, Muslims, Jews, and Christians coexisted, each playing a role in the rich cultural development of what ultimately became modern Spain. Ten centuries ago, Muslims brought science, architecture, medicine, and extraordinary art, while the Jewish community developed the country’s economy and served as its powerful merchant class. The Christians provided administrative governance. In fact, when Alfonso X, also known as Alfonso the Wise, died in the latter half of the 13th century, he ordered that it be inscribed on his tomb that he was ‘King of the Three Religions.’ Even today it’s impossible NOT to see the influence of the three belief structures that characterized ancient Spain. Look at the Mezquita Cathedral in Córdoba,  where a Catholic church has been built to surround a mosque. The country was a palimpsest of contradictions, but it worked.

In the mid-1400s, things changed in a way that is eerily reminiscent of current events. Alonso de Ojeda, a Dominican friar from Seville who had the attention of the Catholic Kings, Fernando and Isabela, told Queen Isabela during an official visit to Seville that large numbers of Jews who had converted to Christianity were actually Christians in name only—that they in fact continued to practice what came to be known as crypto-Judaism. A study, written by the Archbishop of Seville and Tomás de Torquemada (a Jewish convert himself and soon-to-be administrator of the Spanish Inquisition), offered the same conclusion. I don’t know if this was the first example of a conspiracy theory, but it certainly qualifies as one.

In response to these baseless claims, Fernando and Isabela requested a mandate from the Pope to establish an inquisition in Spain. The Pope agreed, and granted them permission to select a panel of priests to serve as Inquisitors.

In 1482 Fernando sought to take over the existing Papal Inquisition in the province of Aragon, which resulted in major resistance because it infringed on local rights. Relatives and friends of those accused complained of the brutality to the Pope, who wanted to maintain control of the Inquisition. The Pope wrote that “… in Aragon, Valencia, Mallorca and Catalonia, the Inquisition has for some time been moved not by zeal for the faith and the salvation of souls, but by lust for wealth, and that many true and faithful Christians, on the testimony of enemies … have without any legitimate proof been thrust into secular prisons, tortured and condemned as relapsed heretics, deprived of their goods and property and handed over to the secular arm to be executed, to the peril of souls, setting a pernicious example, and causing disgust to many.”

The Pope, whose position on the “new Christians” was far more tolerant than those of the Spanish Catholic Kings, tried to maintain control over the Inquisition to ensure that the punishments being meted out were appropriate and justly assigned. He issued a new order that stipulated a more tolerant approach to the practices of the Inquisition.

Fernando was outraged, arguing that no sensible pope would have published such a document. In May of 1482, he wrote a threatening letter to Rome, saying: “Take care therefore not to let the matter go further, and to revoke any concessions and entrust us with the care of this question.” In response, cowed by the power of the Spanish monarchy, the Pope changed his stance to full cooperation, and issued a new order in 1483 that appointed Torquemada as Inquisitor General of Aragon, Catalonia and Valencia, in the process creating a single entity to administer nationwide punishment without oversight. 

The first victims were burned at the stake in Aragon in 1484. Fierce opposition continued, protesting the loss of local autonomy. Meanwhile, the Pope withdrew all papal inquisitors from the region, handing total control to the Inquisitor General Torquemada, including the handling of all appeals. The Catholic Church abdicated its oversight, effectively washing its hands of the whole affair.

Keep in mind that the Jews represented the country’s merchant class—the artisans, shopkeepers, laborers, and craftspeople. In 1483, all Jews living in the province of Andalusia were expelled from the country. The Pope was troubled by this aggressive stance, but his protest fell on deaf ears because of political pressure from King Fernando, who threatened the Pope if he continued to question the actions of the Catholic Kings. The Pope backed down, and in short order Torquemada established additional arbitrary rules for persecution. One of them was that new courts could be established on an ad hoc basis as needed, with a thirty-day grace period for the accused to confess. And as for the accused, they were guilty until proven innocent based on such ludicrous things as the lack of chimney smoke coming from their homes, clear evidence that they were observing the Sabbath. The accused were allowed to confess and do penance, but if they relapsed—and all it took was the whispered word of an angry neighbor—they were executed. Those who had nothing to confess were tortured until they came up with something, anything, to make the pain stop. Then they were executed.

1492 is widely recognized as the year that Christopher Columbus received permission from the Catholic Kings to sail off to the New World in pursuit of untold riches that would add wealth to the Crown’s coffers. His voyages, often taught as brave forays into the unknown, were in fact expeditions of hegemonic terror.

The Catholic Kings gave Columbus, whose actual name was Cristobal Colón, the title of admiral, viceroy, and governor of any land he discovered. And, he was allowed to keep ten percent of any treasure he found, which motivated him greatly to do so—and by any horrific means necessary. 

But 1492 is also studied by Spanish historians because of a less well-known but far more profound event: by royal decree, all of Spain’s remaining Jews were expelled that year. They left the country by the tens of thousands, taking with them what amounted to the entire merchant class of the country—and the economy that they made possible. As a result, Spain slid into a slow but inevitable economic collapse. The country found itself morally and economically bankrupt, its trade routes disrupted, its trading partners non-existent. Spain entered its own Dark Age, hopelessly crippled.

It doesn’t take a degree in Medieval Spanish History to do a little plug-and-play exercise here, replacing 15th-century names with names from the 21st, substituting one ethnic group for another, inserting a 15th-century excuse for an unspeakable action for one that is similarly vile from the 21st-century. 

I’ve quoted George Santayana a lot lately about the state of things, so I think I’ll end with a quote this time from Polish poet Stanislaw Lec: “When smashing monuments, save the pedestals—they always come in handy.”

Indifference

‘The only thing I owe you is my utter indifference.’ 

I heard Dennis Miller say that on his show, years ago. It stuck with me, and in the last few weeks it’s come back into my memory. Recent events in my life have made me think long and hard about who I am, what I am, and how I am. Let me explain.

I don’t care what color you are. I don’t care who you love. I don’t care what beliefs help you get through the day. I don’t care if you are skinny, fat, old, young, rich, poor, feeble, or sharp. I don’t care what you studied, where you studied, why you studied, or IF you studied. I’m indifferent to these things because they don’t—matter.

Here’s what I do care about.

Kindness. Your ability and willingness to engage with others. Your level of curiosity (more is better). Your interest in things outside yourself. Your story. Your family. The things that make you laugh, smile, cry, and despair. These are the things that make you human.

Let me tell you a story. When I was 13 years old, my family moved to Spain, thanks to a job transfer. Considering that we moved to cosmopolitan, European Madrid from Midland, Texas, in the heart of the oil (and prejudice)-soaked Permian Basin, the adjustment was—jarring. But I dealt with it—I adjusted—I went native, as seasoned (and, perhaps, jaundiced) expats say. But it didn’t happen without help. 

We rented a house in a small village a few miles west of downtown Madrid, a cozy little pueblo called Aravaca. To call it a house was a gross understatement: it was a house in the same way that Costco is a ‘shop.’ It had nine bedrooms, five bathrooms, a beautiful garden with a pool, two kitchens, and Loli.

Loli, at right, modeling a Flamenco dress; her parents, at left.

Loli worked for the family that preceded us in the house as a domestic—a maid, I suppose—and she saved us. When we rented the house, it was just assumed that she was part of the package, and thankfully, she was. That was 50 years ago; I still see Loli every time I go to Spain on business. She’s a few years older than I am, and as much a part of my family to me as my parents and brothers are. She’s my sister.

One winter day, we accepted an invitation from Loli to join her at her parent’s home for coffee and dessert. They lived in an even tinier town beyond ours called Majadahonda, a scrubby little pueblo that looked like a Star Wars outpost town—no paved streets, cattle and sheep running around, ancient Spanish women dressed all in black, the sign of a lost husband. Light snow was falling; it was December, and it was very cold.

We parked the car and climbed a half-completed brick staircase on the outside of an equally incomplete building that led to their home. It comprised two rooms: a kitchen and dining room about eight feet on a side, and a bedroom and bath about the same size. In the center of the kitchen was a small round table with a heavy felt table cloth that reached all the way to the floor. Under the table was a heavy metal brazier, filled with burning coal; this was what heated the home. We were instructed to sit at the table, and wrap the table cloth around our legs to stay warm.

My prejudices began to surface—I felt them rise, like the tide. These people were so poor—they had nothing. The only things hanging on their bare, whitewashed walls were a large crucifix, and a slightly crooked photograph of Generalísimo Franco. I felt embarrassed, awkward, out-of-place. I didn’t know how to—BE.

We spoke enough Spanish to carry on a halting conversation with our hosts, but most of what we exchanged were smiles, and hand gestures, and a tremendous amount of laughter. I had no idea what they were talking about most of the time, but I don’t think I’ve ever in my life had a more fun day. These people were poor, they spoke no English, but they were kind, and they were inclusive.

Soon, neighbors began to arrive because they wanted to meet us, and with them, a cornucopia of food. An entire Serrano ham came through the door, the entire leg of a pig, air cured, strongly flavored, delicious. Strings of chorizo and lomo and morcilla and salchichón sausages, rich with paprika and garlic and savory fat. Bowls of fried and marinated anchovies. Olives and peppers. Mushrooms, sautéed in olive oil and garlic. Bags of French bread, torn apart to soak up the leavings on the plate. And a universe of cheeses from all corners of Spain. 

We ate until we were full, and then we ate some more. Desserts arrived, mysterious and unknown and incredibly tasty. And then, the music started.

Spain is a musical country. Spaniards are wired with arpeggios; 16th notes flow through their veins, and their hearts beat to the staccato attack of a Flamenco dancer’s shoes. And so it was that spontaneous singing began to break out. One person would begin to wail, that sad, lonely sound that makes me think of foghorns and that is completely unique to Spanish love songs, and everyone else would join in, clapping in syncopated rhythm as the music progressed. As each song approached its final chorus, a voice would begin a different song, and the group would switch over, seamlessly. I did not understand the words, but the music, the rhythm, the emotion, spoke to me. I was entranced.

And it was at that moment that I became aware of a deep shifting in my heart, or perhaps in my soul, a feeling that I can recall to this day, with crystalline clarity. I was changing, fundamentally. My preconceptions about poverty and the measure of a person’s worth shattered, and were remade that day. Our nine-bedroom house, with its landscaped garden and pool that I had bragged about to my friends in letters, was meaningless. These people, these wonderful, warm, giving, caring, connected people, were far richer than I would ever be. 

The Dalai Lama once said, ‘My religion is very simple. My religion is kindness.’ That’s the most profound thing I’ve ever heard a religious figure say.

So, let me go back to my original thought, the one that transported us to a family gathering in Majadahonda. That experience, and countless others that I was honored to be part of during my time in Spain, changed the way I look at the world. I don’t care about those superficial, unimportant, physical and metaphysical things that surround you, and I expect the same indifference of you. But: I also expect you to seek kindness in me, and to expect my interest in those deeply human things that truly make you who you are.

Look, I’m not naïve. I’ve been around long enough to have witnessed acts of human cruelty that defy my ability to rationalize them. I watch, as more and more people in the world today try to define themselves by the things that they surround themselves with, rather than by the things that lie inside them. I shake my head as we glorify actors and sports figures and call them society’s game changers, yet we pay little attention to teachers, scientists, activists, aid workers, and artists, the REAL game changers.

On the other hand, I’ve also seen breathtaking examples of human kindness. I’ve seen ordinary people engage in acts of bravery that, in wartime, would have earned them a medal. I’ve seen art and listened to music and read literature that made me cry with unfettered emotion, and that made me feel that we humans, for all our faults, still have redeeming qualities.

So, this is my pledge, to myself as much as to others. I will strive to be more aware. I will think before I open my mouth. And I will try, very hard, to understand that the way I experience the world is vastly different than the way many others do.

Leaps of Language

A version of this essay was first released as an episode of The Natural Curiosity Project Podcast. You can find it here: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-natural-curiosity-project/id1443160082?i=1000424446274.

I grew up in Spain, from the time I was 13 until I graduated from the American School of Madrid. Thanks to my time there I developed a lifelong passion for culture and languages. I speak seven of them with reasonable levels of fluency, so nothing intrigues me more than someone in an elevator who’s speaking a language that I can’t even regionally place, much less understand. 

Spanish, of course, doesn’t fall into that category. I speak it well enough that I am occasionally mistaken for a native speaker – which I guess I almost am. In fact, when the time came to go to college, I enrolled in the University of California at Berkeley and ended up getting an undergrad degree in a field that pretty much no one has heard of called ‘Romance Philology.’ Philology is the study of language structures and origins, so Romance Philology is specific to the Romance Languages, which include all the languages that derive from Vulgar Latin. The most common Romance Languages are Spanish, French, Portuguese, Romanian, and Italian; the least known include Catalan, Occitan, Romanch, Piedmontese, and Corsican. It’s a really interesting field that I use every single day of my life to identify words that I don’t know or to draw linkages between similar words in different languages. 

One of the coolest things we learned was a phonetic alphabet that gave us the Harry Potter-like ability to write words exactly as they sound, so that a word that’s pronounced one way in Spain can be written differently than the way it’s pronounced in, say, Mexico. For example, consider the Spanish word for house. In Latin America, they say ‘casa, with a sibilant S (ssssssss…). In Spain, however, they pronounce it almost like ‘casha,’ using what is called an apicoalveolar S. Well, the phonetic alphabet allows me to write the same word differently, and therefore know exactly how to pronounce it in different regions—or, for that matter, to identify a person’s country of origin by the way they pronounce certain words. 

Here’s another example. Think about the ‘TH’ sound in these two words: ‘thorn,’ and ‘weather.’ Well, there are symbols in the phonetic alphabet that allow me to identify them. They’re called eth and thorn. And there are LOTS more.

But even with that level of familiarity, there is one aspect of the Spanish language that still fascinates me, and that is the number of words that it has given to the English language. I’m not talking about Spanish words that are used in their native form as if they were English words, like enchilada, amigo, and Los Angeles. I’m talking about Spanish words that entered the English language because they were overheard and adopted – but typically transmogrified along the way (that’s a good word, by the way—transmogrified—go look it up). Here are a few of my favorites.

Alligator: This word came from the Spanish phrase el lagarto, which means ‘the lizard.’ Say it – sounds just like ‘alligator,’ doesn’t it?

Here’s another one: Hoosegow. You know, the old cowboy word for the jail. This is a corruption of the phrase, el juzgado which means ‘the court.’ Hoosegow is a slang English word for jail or prison (as in, “He’s in the hoosegow – we gotta go spring him.”)

OK, how about Key West. Who would have thought that the name of this popular resort comes directly from Spanish, and not from the fact that it’s a western Cay. Nope: It comes from the Spanish phrase, “Cayo Hueso,” which means “Bone Cay.” It turns out that 16th and 17th-century ships were constantly finding themselves wrecked on the poorly marked coral reefs down there, and because of the bones scattered about from unlucky sailors and shipboard livestock that drowned, it was given this name Cayo Hueso by the Spaniards, which was then misinterpreted by English-speakers as ‘Key West’ because that’s what it sounded like to the Anglo ear.

Lariat: Another great word that came from the Spanish. It derives from the phrase “la reata” which means a rope or strap. Similarly, “lasso” comes from “el lazo,” which is a noose or braided rope for tying things together.

Mustang: This Word comes from the Spanish word mesteño which means, in Spanish, “Pertaining to or derived from the Mesta.” The Mesta was an influential association of sheepherders in medieval Castile in Spain. Interesting fact: These people had so much power in Spain that to this day they are free to drive herds of sheep down the main streets of Madrid with impunity – the law protects them. 

Palaver: In old western movies it was common to hear one character say to another, “We need to have a palaver,” meaning, “We need to chat.” This word derives from the Spanish word “palabra,” which means word—although it is also used in slang form to mean an extended conversation.

Rodeo: This word comes from “rodeado,” which means “to surround or encircle; a roundup.”

This is interesting, isn’t it? We use many of these words without even thinking about where they come from; it fascinates me to see how languages leak into each other. Here are a few more.

Ten-gallon (hat): Most of us (myself included) would conclude that the name “ten-gallon” refers to the size of the hat, like the one Hoss wore on the old TV show, Bonanza. But in fact, it comes from the Spanish phrase, “¡Tan galán!” which translates to “How gallant!”

Vamoose: From the Spanish word ¡Vamos! Which means “Let’s go!” Cool, huh? 

OK, let me switch gears for a minute and talk about another of my favorite linguistic rabbit holes, which is pidgin. Now, this is not the kind of pigeon that leaves unpleasant white splotchy messages on your car; I’m talking about the language. It’s spoken all over the world in various forms. In fact, more than two million people speak it in Papua, New Guinea alone. Wikipedia lists almost fifty different Pidgin languages.

Pidgin is defined as a language that’s spoken between two groups of people who do not have a common language between them—so they create one. It usually comes about because of a need to do business between the two groups, so they create a simple, common language that they can both understand. And by the way, some people use Pidgin and Creole interchangeably, but they’re not the same thing. Creole is a complete language, with a well-developed grammar, vocabulary, and sentence structure, that in some cases may actually have its roots in some form of Pidgin. But Creole speakers are native speakers of that language—it’s the language they were born into and learned from childhood.

The cool thing about Pidgin is that you can learn it—the entire language—in about a week. OK, maybe not all the vocabulary, but certainly the structure and the ability to speak it. If you go to the Web, you’ll find all kinds of resources where you can listen to Pidgin spoken; there are even Pidgin dictionaries out there. 

Now one thing you have to know about pidgin is that it is completely phonetic in its pronunciation. There are no complex sentence structures. What you hear is what you write.

So just to give you a sense of how it sounds, let me share a few phrases, starting with a simple one, and going to some more complex examples. 

Win masin. Literally, ‘wind machine.’ This is the Pidgin phrase for a fan.

Nogat moni. Say it out loud. It means, I’m broke.

Maufgras. This is a good one. If you say it quickly a few times, you’ll figure out that it sounds like ‘mouth grass,’ which is the Pidgin phrase for a moustache. You know—the grass that grows on your mouth. How can you not love this.

Similarly, the phrase ‘Man I Katim gras bilong het’ means, ‘The man who cuts the grass that belongs to your head.’ He’s your barber.

Tokfas. Yep—now you’re starting to get it. ‘Talk fast.’

Namawan pikinini son missiskween. This is a hard one, because it requires that you have some knowledge of the colonial history of places like Papua New Guinea. I’ll give you this one. Say it out loud, and read this: ‘Number one pikinini son Mrs. Queen.’ This is the Pidgin phrase for Prince Charles. Number one makes sense; he’s the firstborn. Pikinini is a word stolen from upcountry Swahili in East Africa that comprises two words, piki and nini, which mean ‘small child.’ Son is son, and Mrs. Queen is—well, Mrs. Queen, the queen of England. Number one small child who is the son of the Queen. Hence, Prince Charles.

Pretty cool, huh? And you’d be amazed how easy it is to express very complex concepts using a language as simple as Pidgin. 

Gutbai, Lukim yu bihain./ Kisim gutpela de! That means Goodbye, see you soon (Looking you behind), Get this day! (have a great day!).

Like I said, languages are amazing creatures.